As a woman navigating both the complexities of the fashion world and my love for conservation, I find myself caught in a contradiction. Yes, I’m guilty! Guilty of succumbing to the allure of a stunning new pair of shoes or that dress that makes my heart skip a beat. But while I enjoy these moments of indulgence, I’m acutely aware that the fashion industry stands at a pivotal moment: it accounts for up to 10% of annual global carbon emissions. This is more than the combined emissions from international flights and maritime shipping. Its environmental footprint spans every stage of production, from the water-intensive cultivation of cotton to the energy-heavy processes of textile dyeing and the pollution caused by synthetic fibres.
But despite the complex challenges, a growing number of companies are stepping up with innovative solutions. Major fashion houses like Chanel, Stella McCartney, and Kering have made bold moves toward decarbonization. These companies are leveraging regenerative agriculture, adopting carbon pricing models, and investing in new technologies to drive industry-wide change.
The Carbon Footprint of Fashion
According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry emits an astounding 1.2 billion metric tons of CO2 annually. Think about that for a moment: the equivalent of over 300 million passenger vehicles on the road! The bulk of these emissions come from three primary areas: textile production, dyeing processes, and logistics. The textile production phase, which includes both the farming of natural fibres like cotton and the manufacturing of synthetic fibres, is the most carbon-intensive, accounting for approximately 70% of the industry’s total emissions. The dyeing and finishing processes contribute an additional 20%, with the logistics of transporting garments adding even more to this staggering figure.
The fast fashion model has further exacerbated this issue. Each year, we produce a mind-boggling 100 billion garments globally. It’s like we’re on a hamster wheel of consumption, with around 92 million tons of textile wastegenerated annually—much of which ends up in landfills or incinerators, releasing greenhouse gases and toxic chemicals. So, while I may indulge in the occasional shopping spree, I can’t help but feel the weight of this unsustainable cycle on my shoulders
The Most Challenging Areas
1. Textile Production: Cotton may feel like a natural choice, but it’s thirsty work. It takes about 2,700 litres of water to produce just one cotton T-shirt, contributing to a staggering amount of water waste, especially in water-scarce regions. And while synthetic fibres, like polyester, are cheaper and more durable, they come with a high price tag in terms of environmental damage. Not to mention, they account for over 60% of global fibre production and shed microplastics during washing—yes, the very same plastics choking our oceans.
2. Dyeing and Finishing: The dyeing process is notorious for its pollution. It’s responsible for 20% of global water pollution, often using toxic chemicals that find their way into local water supplies. When we consider that many of these processes occur in regions reliant on coal power, the implications become even graver.
3. Logistics and Transportation: Let’s not forget about the logistics of our fashion supply chains. The sheer volume of materials and garments moving around the globe results in significant emissions. Transportation emissions are particularly problematic for brands relying on air freight, which can be carbon-intensive.
4. Waste Management: Waste remains one of the most intractable problems in fashion, with the fast fashion model contributing to a culture of disposability, encouraging a throwaway culture that leads to the generation of 92 million tons of textile waste annually. Currently, only 1% of clothing is recycled into new garments, which means that the rest either ends up in landfills or is incinerated, producing even more emissions. Brands like H&M and Zara, often criticized for their fast fashion practices, have begun introducing recycling initiatives. H&M’s “Conscious Collection” and Zara’s “Join Life” lines promote garments made from organic cotton and recycled polyester. Both brands have launched in-store recycling programs, encouraging customers to bring in used clothing for recycling or resale.
Patagonia, known for its environmental activism, has taken a more radical approach. Through its Worn Wear program, the company encourages customers to repair and reuse their garments, reducing the need for new production and minimizing waste. Patagonia’s use of recycled materials, including polyester made from discarded plastic bottles, is another example of how companies can mitigate plastic pollution while promoting a circular economy
While these efforts are steps in the right direction, critics argue that they are not enough to counter the sheer volume of clothing produced.
Companies Leading the Charge
Despite the seemingly insurmountable challenges, there is a glimmer of hope in the form of companies taking decisive action.
Chanel has rolled out an impressive carbon pricing model, effectively putting a price tag on every ton of carbon emitted across its supply chain. This internal pricing structure is a game-changer, pushing departments to innovate and reduce emissions while still offering the luxury and quality that Chanel is known for. I also love Chanel’s commitment to supporting artisans, as it not only preserves the time-honoured craftsmanship of fashion but also helps sustain local economies. This dedication to artisanship ensures that skills are passed down through generations, fostering a culture of creativity and sustainability.
Another brand taking positive steps is Kering, the powerhouse behind brands like Gucci and Saint Laurent, by breaking new ground with its Environmental Profit & Loss (EP&L) accounting system. By quantifying its environmental impact in monetary terms, Kering is integrating sustainability into every business decision. The company has set ambitious goals to use 100% sustainably sourced materials by 2025 and aims for a 40% reduction in its carbon footprint.
Stella McCartney, known for being the industry pioneer sustainably, is advocating for regenerative agriculture. By sourcing cotton and wool from regenerative farms, it’s not only producing stunning designs but also contributing to the restoration of ecosystems. This is the kind of forward-thinking we need more of in fashion.
Burberry has also made a bold commitment: to become carbon neutral by 2022, investing in carbon offset projects focused on reforestation and conservation. Their proactive approach to supply chain emissions and the pursuit of renewable energy sources exemplifies how brands can marry luxury with responsibility.
The Path Forward
The call for change has never been louder. The urgency to address these issues has propelled many fashion brands to commit to achieving net zero emissions by 2050. This aligns with the Paris Agreement and demonstrates a growing recognition of our collective responsibility. Increasingly, brands are held accountable by ESG (Environmental, Social, and Governance) metrics, with investors demanding transparency and action.
Investors like BlackRock are making it clear: companies that fail to prioritize sustainability may face divestment. This external pressure has spurred fashion brands to adopt decarbonization strategies. LVMH, for instance, has pledged to reduce its emissions by 55% by 2030, setting a new benchmark for sustainability in luxury.
Collaboration will be key to the industry’s success. Partnerships between brands, governments, and NGOs are essential to developing new technologies and scaling sustainable practices. The Global Fashion Agenda, which hosts the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, has become a platform for industry leaders to share knowledge, set benchmarks, and drive collective action.
The future of fashion will depend on the industry’s ability to embrace innovation—whether through regenerative farming, carbon pricing, or circular business models.
But it’s also time for us, especially as women, to rethink our approach to fashion. Instead of chasing the latest trends, let’s embrace a more intentional style that prioritizes quality over quantity, investing in timeless pieces—dresses that are ageless, watches that tell stories and shoes that are stylish forever.
These are the treasures we can pass down to our daughters, who will, in turn, hand them down to their daughters. Picture a fashion heirloom that’s been loved through generations, each piece with its own unique story, creating a meaningful legacy.
The thriving second-hand market also offers a fantastic opportunity to reduce our environmental footprint. By choosing pre-loved items, we not only give new life to beautiful pieces but also help combat the waste associated with fast fashion. This shift in mindset challenges us to view our clothing as life investments rather than fleeting trends.
So, can we rise to this challenge together?